I am a big fan of microneedling. I have used this anti-aging procedure on my face and stomach, and recommend it to anyone who wants reasonably fast results. I included it in an upcoming article in effective spa treatments because it can be done at a “medi spa.” However, during research I learned that it can be done in day spas in some states using derma rollers with needles smaller than .3 mm.
I’m not a fan of derma rollers –manual or electric–because the angle at which the needle enters the skin is not the same angle at which it exits. This flexion can cause tears in the skin rather than clean micro channels. However, regardless of whether or not rolling microscopic needles across the face is the same as vertically imprinting them, I would never do it at a day spa unless it was a single use device, and most are not. Unless a device is 100% metal, it can’t be sterilized, and it’s not worth the risk. You also have no idea how many times that device has been used. With each use, the needles lose sharpness, and over time become dull. Dull needles create bigger wounds with longer healing times, increasing risk for infection and scaring.
I’m also kind of against topicals other than hyaluronic acid because of the risk of adverse reaction.